In the cosmetic field, mushrooms such as chaga, cordyceps, and reishi have emerged as innovative and powerful ingredients, thanks to their unique bioactive properties. Used for centuries in traditional medicine, these mushrooms are now highly sought after and increasingly integrated into skincare formulations, offering anti-ageing, hydrating, revitalising, and soothing benefits. Their effectiveness mainly stems from their rich composition of polysaccharides, beta-glucans, antioxidants, and other bioactive compounds that interact deeply with skin cells.
Let us explore together the properties of these medicinal mushrooms used in cosmetics, deciphering the biochemical mechanisms that underpin their beneficial effects on the skin.
Chaga (Inonotus obliquus): an exceptional antioxidant power
Chaga is a fungus that primarily grows on birch trees in the cold climates of boreal and subarctic regions. It is distinguished by an extremely high concentration of antioxidant compounds, notably polyphenols, beta-glucans, and melanin.
Mechanisms of action
• Neutralisation of Free Radicals: chaga contains an impressive amount of polyphenols, molecules capable of neutralising free radicals. These radicals are responsible for oxidative stress, which leads to premature skin ageing by damaging structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. The antioxidant action of chaga thus helps preserve the youthfulness and firmness of the skin.
• Strengthening Natural Defences: the melanin present in chaga is particularly effective in protecting the skin against UV rays and other forms of environmental stress. Although melanin is known for its role in pigmentation, its ability to absorb and dissipate UV energy makes it an effective natural protector against damage caused by sun exposure.
• Cellular Repair: the beta-glucans in chaga stimulate the production of anti-inflammatory cytokines, thus accelerating cellular regeneration. They promote the healing of damaged tissues, which is especially beneficial for acne-prone skin or skin suffering from superficial lesions.
Chaga, with its powerful antioxidant properties, is particularly indicated for anti-ageing cosmetic formulations and for products designed to protect urban skin subjected to constant environmental aggressions.
Cordyceps (Cordyceps sinensis): cellular metabolism stimulator
Cordyceps is a parasitic fungus originating from the mountainous regions of Asia, particularly valued for its revitalising and energising properties. In cosmetics, it is recognised for its ability to reactivate cellular metabolism and enhance skin tone.
Mechanisms of action
• Stimulation of ATP production: cordyceps is particularly rich in adenosine and other nucleotides, which are key components in the production of ATP (adenosine triphosphate), the main energy molecule in cells. By increasing ATP production, cordyceps helps skin cells function optimally, thus stimulating their regeneration and renewal.
• Collagen synthesis: the metabolic stimulation induced by cordyceps directly impacts the production of collagen and elastin, two essential proteins for maintaining the skin’s elasticity and firmness. This effect results in a visible reduction in signs of ageing, such as fine lines and skin sagging.
• Anti-inflammatory effect: cordyceps also possesses anti-inflammatory properties due to the presence of polysaccharides and triterpenes. These compounds help reduce inflammation at the cellular level, thus limiting redness and skin irritation, making them particularly beneficial for skin prone to inflammatory conditions like acne or rosacea.
Thanks to its stimulating and revitalising effect, cordyceps is ideal for products aimed at tired or lacklustre skin. It promotes a fresher, more radiant appearance and improved firmness.
Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum): hydration and soothing
Reishi, dubbed « the mushroom of immortality » in traditional Chinese medicine, is renowned for its soothing and hydrating virtues. In cosmetics, it is particularly appreciated for its reparative effects on sensitive and dehydrated skin.
Mechanisms of action
• Prolonged Hydration: Reishi is rich in polysaccharides, particularly beta-glucans, which help retain water in the skin by forming a protective film on its surface. These polysaccharides strengthen the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier, preventing transepidermal water loss and maintaining long-lasting hydration. This is particularly important for dry or dehydrated skin.
• Reduction of Redness and Inflammation: reishi also contains triterpenes, compounds with powerful anti-inflammatory properties. These triterpenes reduce the production of inflammatory mediators, thereby decreasing redness, itching, and irritation.
• Antioxidant Effect: like chaga, reishi possesses antioxidant properties that help protect the skin against free radicals. Although its antioxidant concentration is slightly lower than that of chaga, its combined action with its hydrating capabilities makes it a very effective ingredient for sensitive skin.
Reishi is therefore particularly suitable for the care of sensitive, irritated, or dehydrated skin. Its soothing and hydrating properties help restore skin balance and strengthen its resistance against external aggressions.
Mushrooms and skin biocompatibility
Medicinal mushrooms have excellent biocompatibility with human skin, meaning their active compounds are easily absorbed by skin cells without causing irritation. In cosmetics, this translates to high tolerance, even for the most sensitive skin. Polysaccharides, in particular, act as natural moisturisers, while beta-glucans stimulate the skin’s immune defence mechanisms, thereby enhancing its ability to regenerate and protect itself from external aggressions.
Thermal water and mushrooms: an optimal formulation
In a cosmetic formulation approach, using thermal water as a base for medicinal mushrooms amplifies their beneficial effects. Thermal water, rich in minerals and trace elements, enhances the bioavailability of the active principles of mushrooms by facilitating their penetration into the deeper layers of the epidermis. It also helps minimise the risk of irritation, which is crucial when working with highly concentrated actives like those from mushrooms.
The use of medicinal mushrooms such as chaga, cordyceps, and reishi in cosmetics marks a significant scientific advancement. With their unique properties, these mushrooms perfectly adapt to various skin needs, whether for protection against ageing, cellular stimulation, or deep hydration. When combined with thermal water, they pave the way for a new generation of effective, skin-friendly, and naturally beneficial skincare products.
By exploring this alliance, you can develop a wide range of products that address diverse skincare needs, merging science and nature to offer unique solutions.
Together, let us explore your project to create innovative, customised cosmetic products.